Days of projects

Like at school. When we came to Greece, we more or less went directly to a climbing spot on our way to Turkey. As we had no luck with the weather in Macedonia for climbing, it was looking better in Greece. We stayed for over two weeks between two villages on a hill, from where it was an easy walk to the rocks. We found some topos in the internet for the red rocks, but as there weren’t any names underneath the routes, we had to guess the difficulty. The rock looked nice, but many routs seemed to be very hard.

Das Kletterpanorama unserer Projekttage - traumhaft
The view when we were climbing our project – fantastic

The surrounding was amazing and we were looking forward to our first day on the rock. First we had to wait, as it was raining again. But then we got the chance and had a try on the red rocks with just guessing the difficulty. We started with the easy ones and planned to try the harder ones later.

Auch so konnte es aussehen - Sonnenaufgang bevor es an den Fels ging
It could be as well like this – sunrise before we went climbing

On the third day we found another sector, as we could not find any names or topos, we want to call it rock for the girlfriends. We decided to spend one day there. The routes were easy and the rock very sharp and nice and in the back we had a wonderful panorama. We used the nice weather for some filming, which is fun but takes a lot of time, to find the right position for the camera.

Die Cam in der Wand - das anbringen war jedesmal eine etwas längere Angelegenheit
The camera in the wall – fixing it took us always a lot of time
Wie man hier gut sehen kann
As you can see here

The days passed on and it somehow felt like daily routine. Before lunch we went climbing and in the evenings we went shopping in the village. One day, as we took another road to the village, we found the climbing sector Remvi. Here we even found names of the routes written on the rock. As it looked interesting, we decided to come here the following day. Small holds, ledges or flakes and one or two finger holes. The motivation came back and we wanted to climb better.

Der alltägliche Weg zu den Felsen - hier nach dem klettern eine kleine Pause auf dem Heimweg
The daily way to the rocks – here having a break on the way back home

As we tried a hard route on the third day, some locals came and watched us, as we were having some difficulties. They told us, how hard the route was and suggested us two other routes, one of them was Viagra, which became our project.

Viagra - mal von unten betrachtet
Viagra – seen from the start

After the first try it felt impossible, but still we didn’t give up. After two tries of Johannes and one of Theres, we went home, but were all ambitious – as the route was beautiful. Small flakes and holes for the finger and shifting the centre of the body. We had one day of break, as it was raining, but the next day we were all hungry to climb to the top. We started warming up in an easy, but unfortunately exhausting route, so when Johannes tried to climb Viagra, he fell.

Eben die Schlüsselstelle ...
The crux …

For the climbers and for all, who are interested, we want to explain the route: It started with an overhanging part, 5 m long, a classical bouldering problem with nice hooks and holds. Then there was the balcony, good for relaxing the arms. From here the vertical plaque started with small holds for fingers or tiny ledges. After 10 m it became positve again and was easy to finish. The route was totally technical and just awesome to climb.

Theres am Sichern ... allzeit bereit Johannes zu fangen
Theres belaying … always ready to catch Johannes
Irgendwo am Fels
In the middle of the route

Now it was the second try of Theres and it took her around one hour, she tried to figure out the problems and learned to memorise all the holds.

Pausenbesprechung - wie kann man was besser machen??
Discussion during the break – what can be done better?
Zwei Finger zum festhalten sind besser als keine!!
Two fingers to hold on are still better than none!!
Aber Profis ziehen sich an solchen Leisten hoch ...
Profis use those ledges …
Die Ruhe vor dem Sturm - nochmal in sich gehen vor dem nächsten Versuch
Reflecting before the next try

Then it was the next go for Johannes. He came to the crux, did it and arrived with weak legs to the top. Screaming, as he was happy, he even got an answer from a passing by fishing boat. Well done!!! Another climbing day was over and we enjoyed the evening with a nice meal and watching the sunset.

Wir schauen lieber das der Tritt sitzt dann kann der halt an den Händen auch mal für unsere Verhältnisse schlecht sein
It was important to have good steps, as finding good holds wasn’t always that easy
Auch Theres war Glücklich das es Johannes geschafft hatte
Theres was happy, when Johannes succeeded
So kann der Sonnenaufgang aussehen ...
The sunrise could be like this …
... oder so ...
… or like that …

The next morning, a good breakfast after a beautiful sunrise and then we went to the rock. Easy routes for warming up. Johannes started lead climb the route again, today it was total pleasure, as he was more secure. Afterwards the next try of Theres and she succeeded too. When she was unsure, Johannes helped from down with shouting to her.

Das Boulderproblem - mit Bravour gemeistert
The boulder problem – climbed without any problems
Es geht weiter in den technischen Teil
Then it went on to the technical part
Die Schlüsselstelle ... einfach schnell überklettert
The crux … just passing it fast
Auch Theres war glücklich das Johannes
Happy, that the project is done

So this project was done – the next can come!! Unfortunately it has not been here anymore, where there would have been plenty of routes, but we felt like moving on. We loved this spot and just can recommend it for everybody, as there are enough easy and hard routes around.

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